The fat people of Birmingham

We were informed on Radio 4's Today Programme this morning that one-third - that is, around 2 million - of the people of the West Midlands are seriously overweight. The discussion of course blamed junk food - "cheap calories" used to fill people up with little or no nutritional value - and the presence of high levels of industrial trans-fats in food.

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It's no surprise to find that people with problems of obesity also often suffer from problems with substance abuse, whether that's nicotine, alcohol or drugs. Food is also a drug.  People living in poverty use food as a comfort. They use food as an escape. They use food as one of the few pleasures available to them.

But that's not all. Food is also used as a way of feeling like an adequate parent - feeding your children what they want when you may not be able to provide them with other desirable goods. Food is care - for self and others. And poor people use food - as we all use food, when conditions are against us - to ward off feelings of stress and inadequacy and fear. Food is a way of feeling plentifully provided for in an environment of utter deprivation on other levels. Food is defence, justification, reward and control. Food is a substitute for love, security, power, and self-worth. And in a society where these are in short supply, it is not surprising so many of the UK population suffer from eating disorders or are overweight.

So just labelling something 45% fat is not going to have much impact. Food consumption is a psycho-political issue, not an education and regulation one. Food and food consumption is an index of value in society, and reflects shame and inadequacy at the way society labels and defines the worth of an individual. And until we stop blaming individuals and start changing the way we view and treat the least privileged, the misuse of food - and other substances - will not change. Increasing obesity shows the increasing polarisation of society and the increasing damage this does to those at the bottom.

So it isn't the people. Or the labelling. After all, rats under stress will also overeat, and you can put all the traffic-light signs you like on their foodbowl, or their poisoned bait, it won't make the slightest bit of difference.